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tabbouleh

Celebrating Lebanese Cuisine

by Janet on December 29, 2009

I was thrilled to see the feature on Lebanese food in the New York Times travel section this Sunday.  I hope you’ll check it out here, along with a slide show of the Beirut restaurants profiled in the article by Seth Sherwood.

My husband is Lebanese and I’ve grown to love the cuisine — even more since I’ve traveled there and experienced the fabulous food first-hand.  Here’s a creamy bowl of hummus we enjoyed last summer in Lebanon…img_2073

I loved Seth’s description of his experience with hummus in a restaurant in Beirut.

“First up:  hummus.  Call it sacrilege, but I have never been excited by this humdrum dip.  But the others insisted, in a flurry of English and French (both of which are widely spoken in Beirut, although Lebanon’s official language is Arabic). Hummus is the best barometer of a Lebanese restaurant’s quality, Ranya explained.  Following her lead I took a corner of warm bread, rolled it into a cone (a nifty trick for scooping up dips) and tasted.  It was excellent: lush, mouth-filling, creamy and flavorful — like an earthy milkshake.”

The article also included a perfect description of tabbouleh.

Such moments are blissfully common in Lebanon, where even the most bland produce or unlikely meats undergo culinary hocus-pocus and emerge, Cinderella-like, as belles of the ball.  Parsley, elsewhere found more often as a throw-away garnish, becomes the basis of that zesty, lemony, tomato-filled, bulgur-sewn refresher known as tabbouleh. The zesty tabbouleh, everyone showed me, should be eaten not with a fork, but wrapped in a lettuce leaf.

So true.  Here’s the tabbouleh with romaine leaves we enjoyed in a restaurant in the mountains of Lebanon.
IMG_2155And here’s a visual culinary tour of my own trip to Lebanon…

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Singing the Praises of Tabbouleh

by Janet on May 12, 2009

If you saw my earlier post about Authentic Lebanese Tabbouleh, then you know I love this parsley, tomato and bulgur salad.  That’s why I couldn’t resist sharing this hysterical video of the “Tabbouleh Song”  that I spotted on one of my favorite food sites Eat Me Daily (where you can find the lyrics).   Check out Remy for the hummus rap and other songs.

 

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Authentic Lebanese Tabbouleh Recipe

by Janet on April 1, 2009

I always smirk a bit when I see “tambouli salad” in a deli case or on a salad bar here in the United States. Nice try, but that’s far from authentic Lebanese tabbouleh. The proportions are all wrong — parsley should dominate, not the bulgur. Maybe we’re just not used to eating so much parsley. This Mediterranean herb is often dismissed as a table garnish.  But parsley is a nutritional powerhouse, rich in vitamins A (beta carotene), C and K, and packed with health-promoting flavonoids. Plus, you’ll never come close to the tabbouleh I’ve  enjoyed in Lebanon (pictured here) or the version I’ve learned to make myself under the watchful eye of my Lebanese mother-in-law if you skimp on the parsley.  img_21554

Tabbouleh is one of the most famous of all Lebanese dishes.  In fact, this beloved traditional salad is a source of national pride. There’s even a national celebration of tabbouleh each summer in Lebanon.  Here’s a poster promoting National Tabbouleh Day in Beiret, which is held at Souk el Tayeb, Lebanon’s first farmers’ market.

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The methods of making tabbouleh vary according to regional or family traditions.  But like the Lebanese flag, the basic ingredients and colors never change — the green, red and white are always present.  The word tabbouleh comes from the Arabic word Mtabali, which means seasoned.  I typically only use salt as my seasoning, but some people in Lebanon prefer a version with additional seasonings. Haalo from Australia (Cook Almost Anything)  features a tabbouleh recipe that includes allspice, cinnamon and pepper (and includes some great photos). 

I’ve seen Americanized versions of tabbouleh made with couscous — but resist that.  You really need bulgur (referred to as burghul  in Lebanon), which is a wonderful fiber-rich ingredient — perhaps the original whole grain.  You can easily find these cracked wheat kernels in most supermarkets now, or try Middle Eastern markets or natural food stores.  I’ve also seen garlic added to some U.S. tabbouleh recipes, but that would be laughable in Lebanon.  Tabbouleh is meant to clean the palate and freshen the breath between bites of spicy, garlicky food — so it’s never to contain garlic itself.

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Ingredients

1/2 cup bulgur, fine cracked wheat
juice of 4-5 lemons
3 bunches fresh parsley, finely chopped
handful fresh mint, finely sliced (optional)
3 medium tomatoes, diced
6 green onions, thinly sliced (with green stems)
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt (to taste)
romaine leaves, for serving

There are various grades of bulgur — fine, medium or coarse.  Save the coarse bulgur for making pilafs.  You’ll need fine or medium for tabbouleh (I typically use fine or #1 bulgur).  I’ve found two different versions of fine bulgur in the Middle Eastern markets in Chicago; you can see that one is much darker than the other. Even though bulgur is considered a “whole grain,” a small part of the bran is sometimes removed during the drying and cracking of the wheat kernel.  You can see the differences in color below, the version that is darker includes more of the bran. I used the lighter version for today’s tabbouleh so the specks of white would be more visible.

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The recipe I’ve learned to make from my mother-in-law Karam starts with soaking the bulgur in fresh lemon juice (about the juice of 2 lemons). Please don’t use bottled lemon juice — it makes a difference!  Let the bulgur soak for 20 minutes or more until all of the liquid is absorbed and the bulgur appears dry. Then fluff with a fork.  Some people in Lebanon only rinse the fine bulgur and then dry it — no softening is needed for the fine grade.  If you’re using medium bulgur, it’s best to cover it with hot water and let it soften for 30 minutes or longer.  Just be sure the water is all absorbed and you squeeze out any excess liquid.  The bulgur needs to be dry, nothing is worse than soupy bulgur.  I often let the bulgur soak in my mixing bowl while I prepare the parsley.

The most time-consuming part of making tabbouleh is preparing the parsley — washing, drying and hand chopping.  But I must admit that I’ve found ways to successfully cut corners.  In Lebanon, flat-leaf parsley is typically used and it’s carefully sliced by hand to create hair thin and crisp slivers. Over chopping can bruise the parsley and create a limp, mushy salad. I know this is not so authentic, but I pull out my Cuisinart.  I find that if I use curly parsley instead of flat, it stands up better to the food processor.  But first, you must thoroughly wash the parsley.  I soak the bunches in cold water and pull off the stems, then rinse several times in a colander.  The parsley must be extremely dry before putting it in the food processor, so I use a salad spinner to speed the process.  Work in batches and gently pulse the Cuisinart until the parsley is coarsely chopped.  Don’t keep it running and over-process, the parsley can quickly turn to mush. 

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Pour the coarsely chopped parsley into your mixing bowl in batches, pick out the random stems that may appear.  If you’re adding mint (I don’t always), thinly slice by hand and toss into the parsley. Add the diced tomatoes and sliced green onions and mix well.  Squeeze the remaining 2-3 lemons on the mixture, toss, and thedsc_0691n add the olive oil.  Mixture should be moist but not drenched.  Add salt to taste, toss well and enjoy. 

Traditionally, tabbouleh is a part of mezze (appetizers) — eaten by hand scooped up with a romaine lettuce leaf, white cabbage or fresh vine leaves.   

Check out Gherkins  & Tomatoes for a great bibliography of Arab cooking. 

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