From the monthly archives:

June 2011

Do you know about the controversial Yoplait commercial? It’s the ad that the National Eating Disorders Association fought to have taken off the air.   In the commercial, a woman opens the fridge and bargains with herself over whether she can eat a slice a raspberry cheesecake:  ”What if I just had a small slice?  I was good today.  I deserve it.”  Then she talks through various scenarios in her head about jogging in place and eating celery sticks to make up for this indulgence.

Here’s the ad in case you haven’t seen it.  What’s your take?


The commercial came to NEDA’s attention after the organization received numerous emails and phone calls from eating disorder sufferers. The group believes the ad’s language could easily serve as a trigger for those vulnerable to disordered eating. Lynn Grefe, president and CEO of the NEDA explains:

“This behavior in a commercial tells people with eating disorders, ‘See, it’s even on TV. It’s OK and normal for my head to go through all these mental exercises.’”

Grefe says that NEDA “applauds” Yoplait and parent company General Mills for agreeing to pull the commercial days after the group voiced concerns (although it may still be in rotation in some markets until it’s completely off the air).

“We had no idea,” Tom Forsythe, VP of Corporate Communications for General Mills, said to the Huffington Post. “The thought had never occurred to anyone, and no one raised the point. We aren’t sure that everyone saw the ad that way, but if anyone did, that was not our intent and is cause for concern. We thought it best to take it down.”

NEDA has fought what they describe as “David versus Goliath” battles against numerous companies whose ads encourage an unhealthy relationship with food. The Huffington Post features a slideshow of other advertising campaigns that NEDA says could serve as triggers for those struggling with eating disorders.

Given all the hubbub, Yoplait was “probably wise to stick a fork in” the ad, says David Gianatasio at Adweek.

Maybe not everyone sees the big deal about the commercial. There are a million ads for “diet” foods, what makes this so different? The problem is all about what experts call “restrained eating.” The character in the commercial (which Adweek says looks a lot like Sarah Palin) is having an internal dialogue that is a classic case of restrained eating — that’s where you never let yourself eat what you want or you’re always obsessing over what you eat. This is the struggle of a lot of chronic dieters who deprive themselves and then give in to their cravings and can’t stop. It’s an ongoing cycle of deprivation and out-of-control, regretted eating. The ad just got a little too psychological and seemed to validate this way of thinking.

“I don’t know what’s more stunning,” says Mary Elizabeth Williams at Salon. “That Yoplait actually ran this dangerous and perverse ad, or the pervasive dysfunctional thinking that it’s natural for women of all sizes to be guilt-plagued, food-fetishizing calorie-counters who “careen from Restriction Village to… Binge Town.”

Here’s what Ellyn Satter says about restrained eating:

Restrained eating increases abuse of emotional eating. In my clinical experience corroborated by the research, restrained eating exacerbates the tendency to abuse emotional eating. People who are not restrained eaters consume less, not more, under stressful conditions. Restrained eaters try to eat less and less-appealing food than they need and want and are chronically hungry. Trying not to eat in the face of hunger and food-preoccupation takes a lot of energy. Stress undermines the energy to sustain food deprivation, and the person overeats. Thus, rather than overeating in response to stress, the restrained eater disinhibits. The restrained eater still eats a lot, but the root cause is undereating rather than emotional arousal. The cycle continues: The remorseful fallen-away restrained eater redoubles her efforts to restrict and again falls prey to stress induced disinhibition.

Satter recommends the following to avoid restrained eating:

  • Feed yourself regularly and reliably. Have meals and snacks at predictable times, and include the food you like.
  • Set aside restrained eating. Trust yourself to go to the table hungry and eat until you feel satisfied. Then stop, knowing another meal or snack is coming soon and you can do it again.
  • Become more comfortable with your feelings. Know what you feel, including that knowing in choosing how to act. Learn to productively use food for emotional reasons.
  • Be clear about what eating can do for you. Eating in a focused fashion is likely to soothe or calm you and even raise your spirits a bit. It won’t resolve the problem-unless the problem is being hungry! When you feel like eating because you are bored, depressed, happy, or sociable, say to yourself, ”It is all right to eat. But first I will find out what I am feeling.”

Then eat positively, deliberately, soothingly, and cheeringly.

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Showcasing Lebanese Cuisine

by Janet on June 25, 2011

Patrick Drake from the World Kitchen in the U.K. made a recent trip to Lebanon and I just had to share these videos that showcase the world-class cuisine, starting with traditional Lebanese foods.  He talks with Kamal Mouzawak who created Lebanon’s first farmer’s market Souk el Tayeb and the restaurant Tawlet, that I previously wrote about. The video also includes a great how-to for fattoush and kibbeh.

“For an authentic insight into a country’s cuisine a great place to start is the local farmer’s market and the Souk el Tayeb in Beirut doesn’t disappoint. I was fortunate enough to meet the organiser of the market Kamal Mouzawak and quickly realised that this market goes way beyond a simple amalgam of local produce. For Kamal the market is practically a socio-political statement that people from myriad different religious, political and idealistic backgrounds can be united through a common love of all things edible. Each week all sorts of lively characters travel from the four small corners of Lebanon to sell their wares and the sense of community around the stalls as old friends ran into each other was tangible.

Lebanon has been a cultural melting pot for a long time owing in no small part to occupation by the Ottoman Turks and then later the French. Enlisting the help of Chef Malek from the prestigious Phoenicia hotel,  we ploughed our way through the incredible mezze in the market. Battata Harra, Fatayer, Saj…you name it I ate it, such that by the time it came to cooking lunch I wasn’t sure I could take much more….The thing I love about Lebanese people is the totally matter-of-fact way in which they explain to you that their cuisine is the best in the Middle East as if the point is not even up for discussion. Chef Malek is more accustomed to catering for the hundreds of people that walk through the doors of his restaurant Mosaic but he took time out to show me some of the basics.  This week we’re going to cover a couple of simple dishes that many of you will be familiar with though not necessarily know how to make: Kibbeh and Fattoush. In my next installment of World Kitchen we’re going to the opposite end of the scale as I check out one of Beirut’s top chefs and we take an entirely modern look at local cuisine.”

The second video looks at Lebanese fusion cuisine (including an amazing looking Freekeh Risotto) and the wine industry. Believe me, I know the wine in Lebanon is fantastic!

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Guilt-free - Joewhk

Guilt-Free: I know it’s probably well-meaning, but I cringe each time I see “guilt-free” on a food label, in the title of a recipe or on a restaurant menu.  Sure it may be reduced fat, sugar-free or whatever, and that’s fine. But no food should evoke guilt.  The same product with a little more fat or sugar shouldn’t make you feel guilty for eating it.  All foods should be guilt-free.  So let’s stop using this adjective, thank you very much.

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Skinny:  Why is skinny the new ideal?  I know the term is in the title of many popular diet books (I wrote about that recently), and Skinnygirl is Bethenny Frankel’s entire platform — which scored her an amazing deal with Skinnygirl Margaritas.  But I think it sends the wrong message.  Maybe skinny helps sell a lot of books, and a lot of booze, but I still don’t like it.

Natural: It’s the big buzz word on package labels, and there was even a recent food fight with the FDA to determine if high fructose corn syrup really qualifies as natural.  We’re arguing over technicalities and the word has lost all meaning. I  think if a food wasn’t actually plucked from a tree or grown from the ground, then it shouldn’t claim to be natural. A vegetable is natural, an extruded veggie straw made from dehydrated vegetable powder isn’t — no matter what the label says.

veggie straws

Detox: I’m so tired of this word. Enough said.

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Cleanse: It seems as though cleanse is the cousin of detox.  Why has this word captured the public’s imagination?  It rose to mainstream status with the Master Cleanse and became big in the world of dietary supplements, such as Jillian Michaels’ detox and cleanse diet pills (that I wrote about not so long ago).  But why has a respected culinary magazine like Bon Appetit jumped on the cleanse bandwagon?  I hated to see the magazine create The Food Lover’s Cleanse.  Sure, they tried to put the focus on real foods and justified going down this path with the message “forget juice fasts and calorie counting…”  I liked that, but why embrace the mythology of cleansing?  Why elevate the terminology?  Why legitimize the concept?  Just don’t think we need to jump on the bandwagon to grab attention.

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Any way, those are the five food/nutrition-related words I hope to see less often.  What about you?

Photo credits:  Flickr users joewhk, chipdwood, geann candare, cheeryobs.

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I got to enjoy the cooking of Chef Lou Lambert of Lamberts Downtown Barbecue in Austin, Texas, on two nights during my recent visit to Austin for the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual meeting. The first night was a celebration for his new book Big Ranch, Big City Cookbook (thanks Lisa Ekus), and he was back again for the closing night cookout on Boggy Creek Farm, a tremendous organic urban farm in Austin.  Here’s Lou with his co-author June Naylor.

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I love brisket.  I’m from Kansas City originally, so I grew up on it.  My mom made a fantastic brisket and I’m always trying (often unsuccessfully) to duplicate it.   But I must say I had some of the best brisket in my life in Austin. Lou Lambert knows how to do brisket.  Here’s the recipe for his famous coffee-rubbed brisket.

Lou Lambert’s Coffee-Rubbed Roasted Brisket

Lambert adapted the recipe for his famous smoked, coffee-rubbed brisket for the home kitchen by roasting the brisket rather than smoking it. You can see him make the recipe on the Secret Ingredient cooking show on the Whole Foods blog.

Coffee rubcover

2 cups light brown sugar 
1 cup chili powder 
1/4 cup paprika 
1/4 cup kosher salt 
1/2 cup medium ground black pepper 
1/4 cup finely ground dark roast coffee 

Roasting the brisket
1 beef brisket, 4 to 6 pounds 
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into pieces 
2 yellow onions, peeled and cut into wedges 
1 1/2 bottles (18 ounces) dark beer

Method

For the rub, combine brown sugar, chili powder, paprika, salt, pepper and coffee in a medium bowl. Stir to combine well. 

Preheat oven to 275°F. Rub the brisket all over with coffee rub and set aside for 30 minutes. Store leftover coffee rub in an airtight container at room temperature. Arrange carrots and onions in the bottom of a roasting pan. Set brisket on top of vegetables. Pour beer over brisket and roast, 3 to 5 hours, until brisket is tender and falling apart. Allow about 45 minutes per pound of brisket. When the brisket is done, you should be able to separate the meat into shreds easily with a fork. Remove meat from roasting pan and let rest 10 to 15 minutes. 

Pour the pan juices and vegetables into a saucepan. Skim the fat off the top of the juices and discard. Slice meat across the grain and arrange on a platter. Serve juices and vegetables with meat. Yield:  10-14 servings.

Nutrition facts per serving

Per serving brisket (About 9oz/247g-wt.): 420 calories (90 from fat), 11g total fat, 4g saturated fat, 58g protein, 16g total carbohydrate (2g dietary fiber, 10g sugar), 100mg cholesterol, 610mg sodium Per serving coffee rub (1 Tbsp/11g-wt.): 40 calories (0 from fat), 0g total fat, 0g saturated fat, 0g protein, 9g total carbohydrate (less than 1g dietary fiber, 7g sugar), 0mg cholesterol, 410mg sodium.

Lou also made this corn pudding at the cookout.  I sure hope this recipe is in his new cookbook (which will be published in the fall). This was quite amazing too!

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A Trip to Central Market in Austin

by Janet on June 5, 2011

I’m just getting back from a trip to Austin, Texas, for the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual conference.  It was my first time in Austin and I was told I had to visit the Central Market — an amazing grocery store that you’ll only find in Texas. So after my presentation was over, that’s exactly what I did.  I hitched a ride with some colleagues and we drove to the original Central Market. I soon found out why this is a top tourist destination in Austin that attracts 2 million guests a year.

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For starters, take a look at the chile display above. Maybe you’re only going to get this in Texas, but how wonderful to find such a wide array of dried chiles.  And I love the Scoville scale that was posted above the chiles to indicate the degree of heat.   There was also a salsa bar where you can buy freshly-made guacamole and a wide variety of salsas.

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IMG_0829The produce section at the Central Market was incredible.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen better anywhere. They had everything! I was especially amazed at the variety of purple produce on display.  I’m quite enamored with purple vegetables and I’ve written about these vibrant-hued vegetables several times, including In Praise of Purple Produce. Take a look at these beautiful purple baby artichokes…

IMG_0821Here’s purple kohlrabi…

IMG_0822and purple carrots.

IMG_0823I’ve never seen a bigger variety of fresh mushrooms.

IMG_0824Take a look at these giant portabellas.

IMG_0825Central Market is a must-stop for anyone interested in tracking trends, and I spotted several innovative products while we were there.  For instance, there was an entire section of dinner kits that shoppers can take home to make quick meals — like this vegetable fried brown rice kit.  All of the kits included pre-cut, pre-measured ingredients that were ready for quick assembly at home.  Great idea, I think.

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The bulk section featured several interesting products, including this falafel mix to easily make this Middle Eastern favorite at home.

IMG_0837The packaged food section included products I’ve not seen anywhere, like these flavored kale chips.

IMG_0835Nut butters are coming on strong as a trend, and I spotted several different varieties…

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Blood orange has become a popular flavor and I spotted this Italian soda…

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I was only in Austin for three days, and most of the time in the conference hotel.  The Central Market was my only real side-trip — and it was well worth it. I found it especially incredible that Austin has Central Market, as well as the original Whole Foods — which is a full block long. Some nice food shopping in Austin, I must say.

Do you know the Central Market?

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myplateIt’s official, MyPyramid is now MyPlate.  I was on hand today for the big unveiling of the nation’s new food icon by Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack, Surgeon General  Regina Benjamin and First Lady Michelle Obama.

IMG_0773For many of us, we knew a plate was coming. So it was no surprise that a plate-shaped symbol was pushing aside the oft-maligned pyramd.  The poor MyPyramid of 2005 just never caught on, and I’m afraid that USDA lost some luster as a nutrition education leader with that misstep.  Even though, it’s unfair to blame the multi-colored pyramid for America’s obesity problem — as you’ll hear some people claim.

With today’s unveiling, I think the agency gained new respect and its efforts were surely propelled by the presence of the esteemed FLOTUS – who was incredibly elegant and well-spoken (as always) today at the Washington, DC event.

She gave the new MyPlate a strong endorsement:

“This is a quick, simple reminder for all of us to be more mindful of the foods that we’re eating and as a mom, I can already tell how much this is going to help parents across the country.  When mom or dad comes home from a long day of work, we’re already asked to be chef, a referee, a cleaning crew.  So it’s tough to be a nutritionist, too.  But we do have time to take a look at our kids’ plates. As long as they’re half full of fruits and vegetables, and paired with lean proteins, whole grains and low-fat dairy, we’re golden.  That’s how easy it is.”

Simplicity seemed to be the prevailing message today.  The new MyPlate was frequently described as …

  • an easy-to-understand visual cue
  • uncomplicated
  • simple, actionable advice

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Yes, that’s what we need.  People are just so overwhelmed with complex, often conflicting messages.  No wonder they’re confused.

We need to make it easy, and we need to give people the confidence that it’s doable.  I  really like the plate symbol because that’s the point of consumption.   We make choices one meal at a time.  So let’s put the focus back on mealtime.   People eat food, not pyramids.  They literally need to know what to put on their plates.

myplate 006I also like the idea that USDA will be focusing on one message at a time — that’s another reason people get overwhelmed and do nothing.  First up is the message:  “Make Half Your Plate Fruits and Vegetables.”   That’s a tremendous call-to-action — it’s a simple message than people can understand, and again, it’s focused on the plate.   There’s a schedule on ChooseMyPlate.gov on how USDA will roll out additional messages so people can focus on changing one habit at a time.  I like that.

The major messages include:
  • Enjoy your food, but eat less.
  • Avoid oversized portions.
  • Make half your plate fruits and vegetables.
  • Switch to fat-free or low-fat milk.
  • Make at least half your grains whole grains.
  • Compare sodium in foods like soup, bread and frozen meals and choose foods with lower numbers.
  • Drink water instead of sugary drinks.

To change habits, people need concrete, actionable ideas (and it needs to be enjoyable, so glad that’s a message!).  I think this approach is going to get us closer to changing behaviors.   I also loved to hear that USDA is going to put greater emphasis on social media to help educate the public. Bravo.

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As registered dietitians and bloggers, we’re here to help.  Here’s what RDs had to say about the new MyPlate:

Bonnie Taub Dix: USA Today  
Gloria Tsang: HealthCastle  
Toby Amidor:  Food Network’s Healthy Eats
Elizabeth Ward: Expect the Best
Lisa Young: The Portion Teller
Regan Jones: Professional Palate
Liz Weiss, Janice Bissex:  Meal Makeover Moms’ Kitchen
Alysa Bajenaru: Inspired RD
Serena  Ball:  Teaspoon Communications
Shelley Rael: Eat Well, Live Well, Be Well
Marisa Moore:  Marisa Moore Nutrition
Rachel Begun: The Gluten-Free RD
Katie Hamm: Healthy and Happy Hour
Elana Natker: A Sprinkle of Sage
Judy Doherty:  Food and Health Communications
Leslie Schilling: Born to Eat
Chere Bork:  Taste Life, With Chere
Cathy Leman: NutriFit
Danielle Omar 
Aarti Batavia    
Marie Spano: Performance Nutrition 
Carol Plotkin: On Nutrition
Jessica Levinson: Nutritioulicious
Penny Wilson: Eating for Performance
Heather Mangieri: Nutrition Checkup
Georgia Kostas
Kati Mora: Around the Plate
Emma Stirling: The Scoop on Nutrition    
Nicole German: Nicole’s Nutrition  
Annette Maggi:  Nutrition Outlook   
Kelley Biondolillo:  The Better Bitty Bite   
Susan Weiner: Susan Weiner Nutrition  
Nour El-Zibdeh: Practical Nutrition  
Carol Ireton-Jones
International Food Information Council:  Food Insight

myplate 004Registered dietitian Kathleen Zelman, director of nutrition for WebMD, spoke at a media briefing following the MyPlate reveal –discussing the plans WebMD has to implement the MyPlate guidelines.  Acclaimed chef Marcus Samuelsson also addressed the crowd, representing the culinary community’s efforts to help.

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In the media briefing room, USDA set up various examples to bring MyPlate to life.

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