From the monthly archives:

August 2009

Kids’ Menus Need an Upgrade

by Janet on August 21, 2009

clx0810idea1Today’s kids’ menus are so … last year, according to Mintel Menu Insights.

This restaurant menu trend tracker says the average children’s menu doesn’t offer enough variety or healthful food — even as parents, kids and chefs alike call out for better options.

An analysis of kid’s menus by Mintel shows the same cliched foods are repeated year after year, with chicken fingers at the top of the list (10% of kids’ menu items).

Here’s a look at the top 10 kids’ menu items, which remains virtually unchanged since 2005.


1.  Chicken fingers
2.  Grilled cheese sandwich
3.  Macaroni and cheese
4.  Burger
5.  Hot dog
6.  Cheeseburger
7.  Cheese pizza
8. Corn dog
9.  Pizza
10. Spaghetti

Do kids and parents really never tire of the same old thing?  Not at all, says registered dietitian Maria Caranfa, director of Mintel Menu Insights.  ”Our research shows parents want more nutritious options for their kids, and children are open to fruits, veggies and healthier versions of standard fare.  The generic kids’ menu really doesn’t meet the needs and desires of today’s families. Only 3 in 10 parents say their children eat healthfully at restaurants, but Mintel found kids will eat fruits and vegetables when eating out:  77% are open to ordering vegetables, 86% would order fruit items.

Some restaurants have introduced healthier items for kids, although french fries are still the most common side — offered with 66% of kids’ menu items.  Other vegetables and fruits are gaining popularity (now at 39% and 43%, respectively).  Even rice and salad (18% each) are showing up as kids’ side options.  Additionally, more restaurants now use menu descriptors in attempts to quantify health.  ”Fresh” is the top marketing claim on kids’ menus, appearing on 17% of items this year (compared to 8% in 2005).

“Restaurants dabble in healthier menus for kids, but there’s still significant work to be done,” said Caranfa.  ”Health and obesity issues, the popularity of ethnic foods and increased media coverage are creating pressure for revamped kids’ menus.  Soon, health and menu variety will be the new standards in kids’ dining.”

It looks like things are beginning to change, according to the Kids and Moms Consumer Trend Report by Technomic. This restaurant consultant asked 1,200 kids ages 6 to 12 about their dining habits.  About 80% of the children surveyed said they have tried to eat more fruit in the past 6 months, and 77% said they tried to eat more vegetables.  In fact, it looks like older children are skipping the chicken fingers and opting for healthier items from the adult menu.

Carolyn O’Neil wrote about the new dining-out data in the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. She interviewed registered dietitian and blogger Janice Bissex, co-author of The Moms Guide to Meal Makeovers.  ”If eating out is a frequent occurrence, some ground rules should be set,” she said.  She recommends limiting soft drink consumption and encouraging water, lowfat milk or juice as healthier beverage options.  But what concerns Bissex most is not offered on kids’ menus.  ”I’d like to see more whole-wheat bread for sandwiches, cut up fruit and baby carrots.  And instead of pasta in butter, I’d prefer to see pasta and marinara sauce with broccoli.”

Fortunately, some restaurants are beginning to introduce better-for-you kids’ options. That’s great to see. But even so, don’t feel limited to “kid food.”  Don’t let the restaurant define what’s appealing and appropriate for kids.  Consider asking for half portions from the adult side of the menu and encourage your kids to try new foods — going beyond the chicken fingers and fries.  It’s a topic I addressed recently in the Chicago Tribune.

I wrote about the narrowly defined “kids cuisine” and how this modern-day kiddie meal may be more than a childhood obesity threat, it may be doing something equally insidious to kids — deadening their developing palates.

“Our children’s palates are being dumbed down by greasy, salty and sweet foods and drinks,” said registered dietitian Keith Ayoob, a pediatric specialist at Albert Einstein Medical Center.  ”Once they get used to these flavors, the taste threshold is set so high that fresh fruits aren’t sweet enough and vegetables taste too bitter,” he told me.

Something to think about next time you pick up the kids’ menu.

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whalebb4

Yes, I’m against animal cruelty. That’s what People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals or PETA is all about. But what about human cruelty.  Have they forgotten about that?  PETA launched a new ad campaign in Florida that is incredibly insensitive and insulting — but that’s often the approach this animal rights group chooses to take.   This time they’re trying to undermine the confidence of overweight women.  I think it’s offensive to women of all sizes.

The billboard depicts an overweight bikini-clad woman with the phrase, “Save The Whales, Lose The Blubber: Go Vegetarian.”

In a press release, PETA stated:

A new PETA billboard campaign that was just launched in Jacksonville reminds people who are struggling to lose weight — and who want to have enough energy to chase a beach ball — that going vegetarian can be an effective way to shed those extra pounds that keep them from looking good in a bikini. [....]
Anyone wishing to achieve a hot “beach bod” is reminded that studies show that vegetarians are, on average, about 10 to 20 pounds lighter than meat-eaters. [...]

“Trying to hide your thunder thighs and balloon belly is no day at the beach,” says PETA Executive Vice President Tracy Reiman. “PETA has a free ‘Vegetarian Starter Kit’ for people who want to lose pounds while eating as much as they like.

“Our goal is help overweight Jacksonville residents – the best way to do that is to go vegetarian. We’re not trying to insult anyone,” Ashley Byrne, a senior campaigner for PETA told the Huffington Post. ”Vegetarians look and feel better than meat eaters. This is a life-saving message.”

Once again PETA has put its so-called quest for animal rights and desire to get the world to switch to a vegan lifestyle ahead of basic decency toward their fellow humans. Now they’re preying on people’s fear of being fat to champion their cause.

“It’s too bad PETA feels the need to insult and humiliate people in an effort to get them to eat what they define to be an ideal diet, said registered dietitian Elisa Zied, who did an excellent job debating PETA on Fox News.

Even some current  PETA supporters feel like the group went too far. Several commenters on PETA’s own official blog announcing the campaign are shocked by the approach:

Wow. Even though vegetarian, I will not support PETA simply for campaigns like this.
Cruelty free means cruelty free.
This is way out of bounds.
However I will be sure to point out this offensive campaign to my friends and collegues so they won’t support PETA either.  Way to go!

It is a sad fact that our country is becoming obese. while I do find the billboard to send a thought provoking message, I cannot say that it’s in harmony with the image that PETA represents.
Did it ever occur to the creative marketers of PETA that perhaps there are overweight people who are vegetarians?
We do not often know of the circumstances behind an individual’s weight problems but our great country is always there to judge everyone in an instant.  PETA is about raising awareness and protecting animals. Let’s remain focused on the actual cause and leave the weight issues for Jenny Craig.

This is the most awful ad I have ever seen. Shame on you . You care more for animals than you do people.

I became a vegetarian and gained 20 pounds over 3 years. I don’t intend to switch back, but I would just like to point out that a vegetarian diet has pretty much as much or more calories than a normal diet

That last comment is so true.  Eschewing all animal products is no guarantee that you’ll lose weight.  And it’s not necessarily healthier.  It CAN be.  But a diet that includes meat and dairy can also be healthy.  It’s a personal choice.

I talked with registered dietitian and Fit Woman nutrition blogger Marsha Hudnall about the campaign to get her perspective.  She’s the director of Green Mountain at Fox Run, a healthy weight retreat for women in Ludlow, Vermont.   She thought the message in the billboard was insulting and uneducated.

“There are lots of reasons why women struggle with their weight, switching to a vegetarian diet doesn’t address all of these reasons and is not the single answer by any means,” she said.  “The ad underscores the fat prejudice in this country and the current stigma of being overweight.  This only adds to the problem.”

Marsha is not alone.  The blogosphere is bristling with negative comments about PETA’s billboard blunder.

Mir Kamin at BlogHer wrote:

If I thought for one second that my kid chose to go vegetarian out of some sort of weird fear of being fat, I’d be shoving prime rib down her gullet faster than you could say “all things in moderation.”  The fat phobia and degradation apparent in this campaign makes me sick.

In her posting, she captured many of the comments that are swirling online…

Dabitch at Adland says:

PETA, you have finally done it. You have made me change my mind about something. Congratulations. However, it won’t be to your liking. I’m going out right now get some Kobe Steak for dinner wearing my endangered species ocelot fur coat and if any one of your mink-releasing vegan followers dares to as much as sneer in my direction I’m making a hat out of their bony ass.

Soap Box of a Very Liberal Woman comments:

I wish I knew the brilliant person in marketing who came up with this. Shock value, yes. Effectiveness, not so much. Will it make fat people vegetarians, probably not.

Laura at Adventures of a Young Feminist offers several great links and sums it up succinctly:

Sure it’s possible for some people to lose weight with a vegetarian diet, but certainly not everyone loses weight by being a vegetarian (like me!). Strike one. Vegetarianism shouldn’t be a decision based on weight loss. Strike two. There is nothing wrong with being fat. Sometimes it is out of a person’s control. Other times it’s a conscious choice. Whatever the case, people can still be beautiful if they are fat. Strike three. And sooooo many other things wrong with this billboard… Using women’s objectified bodies to promote the personal, moral decision of vegetarianism is immoral in and or itself. Also using the slogan “Save the Whales” in reference to a woman’s body is dehumanizing. Apparently fat women are just whales that need to be saved by people from PETA by forcing them to go vegetarian.

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Predicting 2009 Food Trends

by Janet on August 19, 2009

As you know if you’re a regular visitor, I often write about food trends.  And when I happened to stumble upon a blog from Australia that focused on trends, I was surprised to see how similar our lists were. These could easily be U.S. trends, although the original list, based on  2009 predictions from the U.K.’s The Food People, included the trend of “British Food.”

Yet, we have a similar trend.  ”Born in the U.S.A.” is a a big food trend here. We want to know where food comes from, and if it’s not 100-mile local, at least it needs to be grown/made/produced in America.  We’re getting back to our culinary roots in this country and there’s a renewed sense of pride about American cuisine.  Also, companies are increasingly touting  their U.S. connection and support of American farmers.

lays

But back to the list.  Here’ s a look at The Food People’s  predictions of  2009 food trends – 

1. Comfort food: Nostalgia, feel good foods, treats

2. Scratch cooking and home baking:   Raw ingredients, cheaper cuts, more cakes, sponges.

3. Local:   Local regions, traditions, ingredients, breeds and species.

4. Less protein:    Stretching meat with more vegetables. Meat is expensive. Eggs are not, so eggs are in. {The Flexitarian Diet by dietitian Dawn Jackson Blatner just had its premiere in the U.K., so I’m sure this trend will get even bigger across the pond.} 

69392816_cd7d062508_o

5. Head to tail:     Eating all parts of our meat and fish,  reducing waste.

6. Sustainable varieties of meat and fish:     Rock fish, gurnard, flounder, mahi mahi.

7. Changing drinking habits:    Drinking at home rather than out in pubs and restaurants, beer, cider and cocktails.

8. Thirst for food skills and knowledge:  Entry level cooking schools teaching the basics and how to’s.

9. Restaurant and farm alliances: Restaurateurs partnering with farms (farm to plate) engender trust and local sustainability.

10. Miniaturization:  Smaller – greater choice, less cost, more variety, cute factor.

11. More customization:  Customized or tailored goods, products or services.

12. Health: Instant nutrition, ultra low calorie, natural ingredients.

 

Photo credits:   Sixybeast Flickr;  Frito Lay Chip Tracker

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Trends in Snacking

by Janet on August 12, 2009

chips-healthySnacks have officially become the fourth meal of the day, according to the NPD Group.  Snacks now account for 21% of all meals consumed.  And they’re no longer simply a  hunger-soothing bridge between formal meals.  Now they’re gastronomical events in their own right.  Because of this, according to Packaged Facts, consumers want more from their snacks:  vivid flavor, quality ingredients and pumped up nutrition.

The latest snacks are combining health and indulgence, with a new focus on ingredient quality, a kind of “premiumization” trend affecting snacks across categories.  This quality trend stems in part from the fact that 23% of snacks are coming from restaurants (NPD Group).

The 2009 Culinary Trend Mapping Report from the Center for Culinary Development and Packaged Facts identified three high-end restaurant trends affecting the broader snacks market:

  • Gastropubs:  UK-style casual but upscale restaurant/wine bars with emphasis on bold nibbles and smalls plates — spiced nuts, cheese plates and house-made potato chips.
  • Cicchetti: “Little snacks” originally from Venice — olives, mini sandwiches and crostini.
  • Izakaya dishes: Borrowed from Japanese sake bars, these are little nibbles — chicken wings, salted soybeans, grilled short ribs.soybeans-green

The report identified several ways these trends are being translated…

  • Swanky Pork Rinds : Once they were “bubba bites,” the mass-produced favorites primarily of blue-collar snackers.  Then they became in vogue during the Atkins low-carb era.  Now the so-called “real meat” movement is driving a new wave of interest in artisanal pork rinds in high-end restaurants and bars.  They’re also showing up in packaged form, as pricey bags of handmade nibbles, often made from natural and heritage breed pork.
  • Gastro Popcorn:Consumers are seeking lighter snacks that combine the familiar with a new twist.  That’s why high-end popcorn is a hit, including flavors such as curry, black truffles and Parmesan cheese.  White-tablecloth restaurants and bars have made these gourmet popcorns a specialty, tailoring their flavor profiles to go with wine, cocktails or even stand as a substitute for bread and butter before a meal.
  • Seaweed Snacks: Health-minded consumers seeking low-calorie, high-nutrition snacking options are looking more frequently to the sea.  Seaweed snacks include chips, crackers and other crisp, seasoned snacks made with sea veggies.
  • Alternative Chips: There’s been a proliferation of colorful snack chips that go beyond the traditional potato.   Many are premium snacks with artisan and gourmet appeal, such as those made from Yukon Gold and Red Bliss potatoes, sweet potatoes and parsnips.
  • 3d-6oz-veggiemedleychips1Crispy Veggies and Legumes: New snacks are being made with soybeans, chickpeas, green beans and sliced tomatoes.  Most are fried or baked; a few are dehydrated.
  • Whole-Nutrition  Sweets: The latest better-for-you sweet snacks are made from whole grains and legumes, including brown rice, soybeans and lentils.  They’re the unlikely ingredients in the sweets consumers are munching for flavor and nutrition, especially protein and fiber.
  • Nuts Gone Global:No longer simply about plain or honey roasted, now you can find flavors like wasabi, soy sauce, lime and chiles  — with performance benefits such as increased energy and stamina.

somersault1

I recently tried a new snack that plays into these trends. [Full disclosure:  free product was shipped to me to sample.]  I’m always a little skeptical when a packaged snack is trying  hard to be healthy.  But I must admit, I liked these more than I thought I would.

Somersaults are the creation of some Bay Area natural foodies who were on a quest to create “healthy, tasty snacks for people who want more than just fluff.”  They said they were disenchanted by unsatisfying snack options that they thought were “unhealthy belly fillers.”

So they wanted to turn the world of snacking upside down with Somersaults.  Not sure they’ve done that, but they have created a unique snack that tastes pretty darn good.  The crunchy bite-size nuggets are made with sunflower seeds, sesame seeds and toasted grains, and come in three creatively named flavors — Chez Cocoa, S.S. Sea Salt and Salty Pepper.

Yes, they do contain some added sugar.  The company brags about “evaporated cane juice,” but that’s really no different than plain old sugar.  The snacks are described as “all natural” and made with “simple, whole food ingredients.”  And they’re promoting  “mindful munching.” So they’ve captured the hot buzz words.  Besides the seeds and grains, the nuggets also contain inulin, the trendy functional fiber from chicory root that is suddenly popping up in all sorts of packaged foods.   Overall, I give Somersaults a thumbs up.  They’re certainly a lot better option than you would typicaly find in vending machines or convenience stores.  Plus, I liked their whimisical packaging and the sincerity of their creators.

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Low Carbon is the New Low Carb

by Janet on August 12, 2009

biggreencookbookDuring the Atkins era, pork rinds and bunless burgers were immortalized.  But low carb has been kicked aside for low carbon.  These days, the buzz is grass-fed beef, sustainable seafood and locally grown produce.  Devoted carnivores are now locavores. The carb conscious are now climate conscious.  The intense focus on “net carbs” and “glycemic index” has shifted to carbon footprint and food miles.

Today, food is being viewed through a new lens: how it impacts the environment. The “greening” of our cuisine was the topic of my article today in the Chicago Tribune.  I interviewed registered dietitian and chef Jackie Newgent and featured tips from her new book the Big Green Cookbook.  This excellent eco-friendly cookbook includes hundreds of planet-pleasing recipes and clever tips to green your cooking routine. A few examples:

Cut down the size. The finer food is diced, the faster it will cook.  That translates to reducing the amount of greenhouse gases that enter the atmosphere.  Try cutting vegetables into smaller pieces for stir-fries and pounding boneless chicken breasts into super-thin fillets to shave off cooking times.

Do double duty. Aim to prepare, cook and serve in the same pans or bowls when possible so you’ll have less washing to do.  For example, when making a salad, use one bowl to whisk the dressing, toss the salad and serve.

Put a lid on it. When food on the stove is being simmered, sauteed or boiled, finish the cooking by covering it with a tight-fitting lid and turn off the burner to let the trapped heat do some of the work.

Get to know your microwave. Because the microwave oven can reduce energy use by about two-thirds compared with a conventional oven, use it to do more than make popcorn or reheat leftovers.

Skimp on water. When boiling beans or other vegetables, use just enough water to cover the food.  That means you’ll waste less water and  you’ll be able to bring it to a boil faster — two ways to help save resources.

Another excellent book that I mention briefly in my article is Go Green, Get Lean: Trim Your Waistline with the Ultimate, Low-Carbon Footprint Diet by registered dietitian Kate Geagan, “America’s Green Nutritionist.”  This book maps outimg_book an eating plan to help you lose weight and step gently on the Earth. Fortunately, the same diet will do double duty.  Primarily it comes down to eating more plant-based foods — fruits, vegetables, whole grains, beans and nuts.  She makes a convincing case that our SUV-style diet is warming the planet and making us fat. She motivates readers to enhance their health, trim their waistline and save the planet one bite at a time.

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The FullBar Diet Has It Half Right

by Janet on August 10, 2009

fullbarThe latest diet product starring in late-night infomercials, buzzing on the Internet, and showing up in health food stores (even Walgreens) is FullBar.  If you’re not planning to have weight loss surgery any time soon, these appetite-curbing bars are the next best thing — or so claims the creator Michael A. Snyder, MD, a bariatric surgeon in Denver.  You can learn more about these products and how you can “Be Full, Live Full” by visiting the FullBar web site. Or check out a review of the FullBar Diet Plan by registered dietitian Kathleen Zelman on WebMD.

By eating these granola-type bars twice a day with an 8-ounce glass of water 30 minutes before your meals, Dr. Snyder says you can achieve the same weight-loss results without the surgery.  How convenient! He claims to have the “real secret” to losing weight:

“When you feel full, you eat less.  When you eat less, you lose weight.”

Yeah, right.  Got that.

He also promises…

“No special diet. No calorie counting. No hassles.  It’s worked for a lot of people.”

Certainly one person it didn’t work for is Roni.  I especially enjoyed her rant against FullBar.  Maybe I’m just glad not to be the only one ranting.

Sure, I can appreciate the importance of managing hunger.  And it’s true that feeling full on fewer calories is an effective weight management strategy.  That’s the foundation of one of my favorite approaches to weight control:  The Volumetrics Eating Plan by Barbara Rolls.   Dr. Rolls is one of the country’s leading authorities on satiety and her hugely popular books show people how they can choose foods that control hunger while losing weight.

I give him credit, Dr. Snyder has hit on a nutrition hot button.  Satiety does appear to be the new weapon in the war on weight — and lots of  other new products on supermarket shelves are toutingaquafull_berry_bliss_4002 their ability to control hunger, including Dannon Light & Fit Crave Yogurt, Lightfull Foods Satiety Smoothie and Aquafina Alive Satisfy.  Many of these foods and beverages are fortified with so-called functional fibers, such as maltodextrin or inulin (an extract typically from chicory root or Jerusalem artichoke).  Inulin is the key ingredient in the “liquid form” of FullBar called AquaFull. These flavored artificially-sweetened powdered drink mixes are to be added to water and consumed along with your twice-a-day FullBar before mealtime.

These products are not meant to be meal-replacements, but simply pre-meal supplements to help you eat less during your meal. Of course, you’ll need to really pay attention to your internal hunger cues during your meal and stop eating when you’re satisfied (which is easier said than done).  Otherwise, you’ll be adding up to 360 additional calories by eating two FullBars each day.

But my biggest concern is the product itself.  I think the best approach is to eat real food to curb your appetite — the techniques that Dr. Rolls suggests in Volumetrics.  Foods with a lot of “volume” and not a lot of calories include water-laden fruits and vegetables.  Other belly-filling foods include soup.  Studies that Rolls and colleagues conducted at Penn State have shown that eating a bowl of  broth-based soup before your meal helps you to eat less and reduce overall calories.  For 180 calories, I can sure think of a lot more nourishing, satisfying and appealing options than a FullBar to take the edge off your appetite.

The first two ingredients in the bars are brown rice syrup and puffed wheat cereal.  Even though the web site says “no processed sugar,” the bars are loaded with sweeteners — including high fructose corn syrup, agave nectar and honey.  Agave nectar and honey may have a “natural” halo, but there’s no significant difference between these sweeteners and high fructose corn syrup or sucrose.  Get your facts straight, Dr. Snyder, these sweeteners ARE sugar.

The bars come in five different flavors:  Cocoa Chip, Caramel Apple Crisp, Cranberry Almond, Peanut Butter Crunch and Fresh Berry Bliss. They’ll cost you $175 for a 2-month supply (although you’ll get the third month free). Those are the online costs, retail prices may be higher. Perhaps one of the comments I most objected to on the web site was how you can actually SAVE MONEY with FullBar because of all the real food you won’t need to buy.  Ugh.

Dr. Snyder is even promoting these products to kids, as you can see in this video below. He describes the “all natural” FullBar as a healthy snack for kids.  Not in my book.  Instead of a Caramel Apple Crisp bar, what about an apple?  These snacks are high in sugar and contain very few nutrients: 0 vitamin C, 0 vitamin A, 4-6% DV calcium. Since these bars aren’t intended to be meal replacements, they contain a lot fewer nutrients than other nutrition bars.

Managing hunger may be important to help stay on track if you’re trying to lose weight, but I don’t think these products are the answer.

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Photo illustration by Erwin Olaf for the New York Times

Photo illustration by Erwin Olaf for the New York Times

Of course, there are many reasons for America’s weight problem, but could we improve our collective poundage if everyone started cooking?   That’s one of the questions posed in Michael Pollan’s excellent essay in Sunday’s New York Times Magazine.

If you have not read this tremendous article, you must check it out:  “Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch:  How American Cooking Became a Spectator Sport, and What We Lost Along the Way.”

Once again, Pollan stirs the pot and makes some excellent points in his in-depth piece that tackles everything from takeout to “Top Chef.”  He addresses many issues, but the one I was most drawn to was the idea that the “end of cooking” may be behind our growing behinds.  Research conducted at Harvard by David Cutler and colleagues found that the rise of food preparation outside the home was associated with the increase in obesity in this country.  The researchers found that as the “time cost” of food preparation has fallen, calorie consumption has gone up — particularly consumption of the sort of snack and convenience foods that are typically cooked outside the home.  They found that when we don’t have to cook meals, we eat more of them.  As the amount of time Americans spend cooking has dropped by about half, the number of meals Americans eat in a day has climbed.  Since 1977, we’ve added about half a meal to our daily intake.

“Cutler and his colleagues also surveyed cooking patterns across several cultures and found that obesity rates are inversely correlated with the amount of time spent on food preparation.  The more time a nation devotes to food preparation at home, the lower its rate of obesity.  In fact, the amount of time spent cooking predicts obesity rates more readily than female participation in the labor force or income.  Other research supports the idea that cooking is a better predictor of a healthful diet than social class:  a 1992 study in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association found that poor women who routinely cooked were more likely to eat a more healthful diet than well-to-do women who did not.”

At the end of the article, Pollan includes a quote from the NPD Group’s Harry Balzer that really hits the nail on the head when it comes to the power of home cooking…

“Easy.  You want Americans to eat less?  I have the diet for you.  It’s short, it’s simple.  Here’s my diet plan: Cook it yourself. That’s it.  Eat anything you want — just as long as you’re willing to cook it yourself.

Certainly, it’s a darn good place to start.

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